Dehydrated Treats and Raw Bones

The dehydrated treats

Single-ingredient, dehydrated, no additives. That's the whole pitch and it's a strong one.

Treat	Size	Notes
Dehydrated Beef Liver	200g	The most popular. Very rich — small pieces, and easy to overfeed
Dehydrated Beef Lung	120g	Lighter and airier than liver; good for training because it breaks into small pieces
Dehydrated Lamb Lung	120g	Same idea, novel protein — useful for dogs that react to beef
Dehydrated Duck Feet	200g	A chew rather than a training treat. Natural glucosamine
Sardines	1lb bag	Whole fish. An omega-3 topper as much as a treat

Two things worth saying to every customer buying liver:

• It's rich. Too much causes loose stools. Break it small and treat it as a treat, not a meal.
• Treats count toward the daily total. A dog on 2% of body weight doesn't get 2% plus half a bag of liver.

Lamb lung is the quiet useful one. Most single-ingredient treats are beef, and beef is a common sensitivity. A customer running an elimination diet who still wants to reward their dog has very few options — lamb lung is one of them, and offering it unprompted looks like you know what you're doing.

Raw bones — the safety conversation

The bone range is knuckle, marrow (three sizes), pork femur, beef rib, and turkey necks.

Everything you need to say about bones comes down to three rules.

1. Raw only. Never cooked. Raw bone is soft enough to be safe. Cooked bone dries out, hardens and splinters into sharp fragments. Even a light sear does it. This is not a preference, it's the difference between a chew and an emergency vet visit — and it applies to bones a customer might cook themselves at home, not just to ours.

2. Bigger than the dog's mouth. The bone should be too big to swallow whole. This is the rule that decides which bone you sell: match the bone to the dog, not to the customer's budget. A marrow bone that's right for a spaniel is a choking hazard for a lab.

3. Always supervised. Every time, for every dog, no exceptions. Especially until the customer learns how their dog chews — some dogs gnaw, some try to crack and swallow, and you can't know which until you watch.

Recreational bones versus the bone in the food

This confuses customers constantly, and clearing it up makes you sound authoritative.

The ground bone in our food is a nutrient — calcium and phosphorus, ground fine, no splintering risk, part of the meal.

Recreational raw bones are an activity. They're for chewing, dental benefit and mental stimulation. The dog isn't meant to consume the whole thing, and they don't replace any part of the diet.

"The bone in the food is nutrition. The bone in the bag is entertainment. They're doing completely different jobs."

Which bone for which dog

• Turkey necks — softer, fully consumable, good for smaller dogs and for dogs new to bones. Also a genuinely useful puppy option once they're ready
• Beef rib bones — moderate, good all-rounder
• Marrow bones — the most popular bone we sell, in three sizes:
  • Large — 1 bone. Big dogs and serious chewers
  • Medium — 3 bones. The everyday size for most dogs
  • Small — 5 bones. Small breeds, and the best value per bone
  Match the size to the dog, not to the price. The marrow itself is extremely rich, and a dog that eats a whole bone's worth of marrow in one sitting will very likely have loose stools — tell the customer to scoop some out first for a heavy chewer.
• Knuckle bones — larger, longer-lasting, better for a determined chewer
• Pork femurs — dense and hard-wearing. These are for serious chewers; an aggressive chewer with weak teeth can fracture one

Never say a bone is "safe for all dogs." They aren't, and a customer who's told that and then has a problem will come back to your counter, not ours.

On the floor

The three-rule answer, delivered as one sentence, is the most valuable thing in this lesson:

"Raw only — never cooked, they splinter. Bigger than his mouth so he can't swallow it. And stay in the room, at least until you know how he chews."